Fashion S.O.S. – Steven Arpad

Arpad design for shoes, made up for Balenciaga’s fall 1939 collection

A couple of years ago images of shoes dating from 1939 and designed by Steven Arpad, started appearing on the net. They were fantastic creations from the Brooklyn Museum of Art collection, but when that collection was transferred to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, this collection of pullovers (industry term for mock-ups or models) and shoes, were photographed and put on the Museum of Art’s website, where they were subsequently blogged about on several sites.

Arpad pullover – a mock-up or model of a shoe, c. 1939

The only information that ever appears with the shoes is that they are by French shoe designer Steven Arpad, and date from 1939. When I was at the Bata Shoe Museum in the 1990s, we were contacted by Steven Arpad, or his legal representative, about some archival material of his – it wasn’t these pullover models, and I can’t remember exactly what it was because I wasn’t in the loop regarding this discussion – it was being dealt with by the museum’s director Edward Maeder and founder, Sonja Bata (yes, it was a dysfunctional arrangement where the curator was often the last to know…)

Arpad pullover, c. 1939, all images courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

I recall that Steven Arpad was American,  and had studied engineering. He had gone to France before the war where he took up shoe design. His 1939 collection of shoes were all he produced, and Balenciaga in Paris, Delman in New York, (and perhaps Schiaparelli?) bought some of his designs for making into shoes. Unfortunately, WWII started at the same time as Arpad’s shoe design career, and his engineering skills were more valuable for the war effort. Arpad dropped shoe design, returned to the States, and then got lost to history.

Pullover, c. 1939, by Steven Arpad

A search on his name results in a lot of hits about this shoe collection on various blogs, but little else. There was one Steven Arpad I could find that had been born on May 12, 1904 in New York and died on October 12, 1998 in the Bronx, New York. This must be the same Steven Arpad as we were contacted by him or his representative sometime between June 1995 and April 1997. Needless to say, the Bata Shoe Museum did not acquire whatever it was that was being offered. I wish I knew or could remember more… anybody out there know more about Arpad?

To view more of Steven Arpad’s shoe designs go to the Museum of New York’s collection database.

Addendum May 9: I was contacted by Milo Bandini and Irma Vivaldi who have the shoe blog ‘Paddock’, which is a great read because their insight and access to the Italian footwear industry is unparalleled. They found a few references that shed some more light onto Steven Arpad in this post. Apparently Arpad, who was born in Hungary, abandoned shoe design for jewellery design during World War II. They found an obscure article about Arpad that appeard in 1964 in The Bulletin, a daily paper out of Oregon. The journalist Gay Pauley writes:

Arpad, Budapest-born, moved to Paris as a young man to study fashion and applied arts. He started his career making boutique items for Jean Patou and ultimately for Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, Paquin and Molineux. He designed and made collections before World War II, he said. And before the war also he was under contract to several U.S. shoe firms including Delman and I. Miller. At the same time he was operating embroidery firms in both Paris and New York. When World War II started, Arpad moved to operate his embroidery firm, open a sportswear house and to do accessories for ready-to-wear designers. He made a big splash during the war years with his retail line of metalless jewelry, made with lace, braiding, net and passamenterie. During the years, he has jewelled everything from combs to belts to shoes. He made jewelled snoods when long bobs were popular and brought back the jewelled hatpin during the post-war years. “

For more references and information about Arpad, check out Paddock’s blog.

 

About Jonathan

Jonathan Walford is a fashion historian and co-founder of the Fashion History Museum in Cambridge, Ontario. The FHM maintains a collection of nearly 12,000 artifacts dating from the mid 17th century to the present. Jonathan has authored various books and museum catalogues, including The Seductive Shoe, Shoes A-Z, Forties Fashion, 1950s American Fashion, and Sixties Fashion.
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4 Responses to Fashion S.O.S. – Steven Arpad

  1. Daniel says:

    Those top shoes are AMAZING!! In fact they’re all quite something – he could have given Ferragamo a real run for his money.

  2. Lisa says:

    I worked for Steven Arpad from late 1970’s to early 1980’s in New York. I helped with embroidery and jewelry designs from working at his home to the opening if his showroom in midtown Manhattan. I’m glad to have known both Steven and his son James

    • Jonathan says:

      Thanks Lisa for this information. I would love to find out more about him but I still can’t find much online. I wonder where his archives went?
      Jonathan

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