Stanley Marcus created The Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion in 1938 and awarded it annually until 1969, then sporadically afterwards. Although most recipients played for the home team, the award wasn’t just for American designers but also international designers and trendsetters.
I thought it would be interesting to see who all the recipients were but many of the names meant nothing to me. With the help of Fuzzylizzie and Lynne Kranieri everyone has now been identified so the next job will be the Coty awards!1938: Germaine Monteil – French born New York fashion designer who later turned to cosmetics Nettie Rosenstein – New York fashion designer/manufacturer Dorothy Liebes – American textile designer and weaver Louise B. Gallagher – American coat and suit designer Dan Palter – American shoe designer George Miller – American shoe manufacturer (I Miller) Mr. John – New York milliner Richard Koret – handbag manufacturer 1939: Hattie Carnegie – Austrian born retailer/manufacturer Clare Potter – American fashion designer Herman Delman – American shoe designer Elizabeth Arden – Canadian born beauty culture pioneer, for her early work in cosmetics John Cavanagh – Men’s hatter and founder of Hat Corporation of America – merger of Knox, Dunlap, Cavanagh, and Dobbs hat manufacturers. Janet May – designer for Carlin Comforts – bed linen and boudoir accessories manufacturer 1940: Elsa Schiaparelli – Parisian couturier Sylvan Stroock – American textile manufacturer who successfully marketed camelhair, vicuna, and llama Edna Woolman Chase – U.S. Vogue editor since 1914 Lilly Dache – French born American milliner 1941: Eleanor LeMaire – New York commercial interior designer including Bullocks Wilshire department store in LA Carmel Snow – U.S. editor of Harper’s Bazaar since 1934 Anthony Blotta – New York coat and suit designer Omar Kiam – Hollywood costume designer Madame Tobe – probably the owner of Tobe and Associates – a fashion merchandising service that arranged shows for large numbers of buyers. Max Meyer – Pioneer in the organization of labour in the needle trades 1942: Voris – Voris Linthacum Marker was a California designer of suede sportswear. Her company, called Suedes by Voris, was located on Sunset Boulevard Betsy Talbot Blackwell – Editor who made Mademoiselle magazine successful Norman Norell – New York fashion designer 1943: Adrian – Hollywood costumer turned fashion designer 1944: Countess Mara – Italian born American tie designer Brooke Cadwallader – American scarf designer Ben King – American accessories designer – but what type of accessories I don’t know. Jo Copeland – American fashion designer who worked under the label Patullo – Jo Copeland 1945: Vera Marghab – Portuguese embroiderer and manufacturer Louis A. Weinberg – American tailor founder of Oxxford Clothes, founded 1916 Emily Wilkens – American Children’s clothing designer Tina Leser – American sportswear designer Mrs. Thea Tewi – New York lingerie designer Dr. Francis Taylor – Director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art for offering the facilities of the Met to designers and manufacturers during the war when travel to Europe was impossible Maurice Rentner – Polish born New York fashion manufacturer, eventually bought out by and renamed Bill Blass in 1970 1946: Mrs. Howard (Slim) Hawks – New York socialite and trendsetter Mr. William Phelps – William and his wife Elizabeth owned Phelps Associates, a manufacturer of leather belts and handbags Adele Simpson – New York dress designer and manufacturer John Gates – Director of Design for Steuben Glass, for merging the architecture, engraving, and sculpting of glass Harry Landon – Mutation Mink Breeder’s Association for increasing the colour ranges of mink Mr. William H. Joyce – Founder and owner of Joyce Shoes. Mrs. Faie Joyce – Designer for Joyce Shoes (hired in 1938 as Faie Jarmel) and became wife of William Joyce. 1947: Irene – Hollywood costumer and fashion designer Christian Dior – Parisian couturier Salvatore Ferragamo – Italian shoe designer Norman Hartnell – English fashion designer 1948: Madame Henri Bonnet – stylish wife of the French ambassador to the United States General Julius Ochs Adler – added the fashion section to the New York Times in 1946 Claire McCardell – American sportswear designer Antonio Castillo – Spanish born fashion designer 1949: Alice Cadolle – Parisian corset maker Gladys Geissman (aka Merry Hull) – American accessories designer David Evins – English born American shoe designer Jacques Fath – Parisian couturier 1950: Gloria Swanson – Presumably for her stylish appearance in Sunset Boulevard. The following year Gloria Swanson licensed her name to the Puritan Dress Company for their ‘Forever Young’ label, a line that ran for thirty years. Pauline Trigere – French born New York designer Fleur Meyer – I think Neiman Marcus updated her name after she married her 4th husband Tom Meyer in 1955. This must be Fleur Cowles who was the creative force behind the stylish but content-free Flair magazine, which was published for one year, starting in 1950. At one time I had a complete run of this magazine but it was all flash and no content and I resold my run for an obscene amount of money when I needed rent one month… Bonnie Cashin – American fashion and sportswear designer 1951: Michelle Murphy – Developer of the Brooklyn Museum’s Industrial Design laboratory Mrs. Ernestine Cannon – American ceramist and dinner ware designer Jane Derby – New York ready-to-wear manufacturer. After her death in 1965, her business was bought out by Oscar de la Renta. Ben Zuckerman – New York suit and coat manufacturer Jacques Lesur – French textile creator of ‘poodle cloth’ 1952: Anne Fogarty – Designed dressy sportswear under Fogarty for Margot Inc. Roger Fare – Parisian glove manufacturer Vincent Monte Sano – U.S. Coat designer Dolores del Rio – Hollywood actress who was considered a leading beauty in her day – I assume this is why she received the award. 1953: Marchesa Olga di Gresy – Italian sweater manufacturer since 1937 Charles James – Notoriously difficult but very talented New York couturier Ben Sommers – Shoe designer for Capezio in Manhattan Gilbert and Helen Orcel – Parisian milliner 1954: James Galanos – California designer who opened in 1951 Emilio Pucci – Italian designer Mr. and Mrs. Herbert Levine – New York shoe designer and manufacture 1955: Mrs. Florence Eiseman – Children’s clothing manufacturer Pierre Balmain – Parisian couturier Sally Kirkland – American fashion editor at LIFE magazine (she was LIFE’s only fashion editor 1946-1971) Henry Dreyfuss – I am not sure why Dreyfuss received a fashion award, but he was a leading American industrial designer for everything from typewriters to telephones. Vera Maxwell – sportswear designer HSH The Princess of Monaco – Grace Kelly, presumably for her beauty and style 1956: Cecil Beaton – For his Broadway costume designs for My Fair Lady, which became a source of inspiration for fashion in fall 1956 and spring 1957. Guiliana Camerino – Italian fashion designer Marie-Louis Bousquet – Editor of Paris Harper’s Bazaar 1957: Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel – Parisian couturier 1958: Yves Saint Laurent – Parisian couturier Jens Quistgaard – Leading Danish designer of the Danish Modern movement but not known for fashion. Helen Lee – Children’s fashion designer 1959: Rosalind Russell – Hollywood actress, Russell was awarded the honour for her stylish performance in the film (released Dec 27, 1958) Auntie Mame Arnold Scaasi – Canadian born New York designer Piero Fornasetti – Italian artist Emme – New York Milliner Ethel Price and her designer Adolfo Sardinas 1960: Claude Staron – French textile manufacturer
Sylvia Pedlar – lingerie designer Roger Jean-Pierre – French Jewellery designer Dinah Shore – Stylish American singer and television hostess Edward Burke Smith – Importer of European furnishing textiles through his company Craig Creations & Octavia Inc. (Thanks to Lynne Kranieri for finding this one!) 1961: Roger Vivier – French shoe designer Greer Garson – British born actress whose third marriage made her a very wealthy Texas socialite (and excellent client of Neiman Marcus) Harry Rolnick – head of Byer-Rolnick Corp., a Dallas area hat manufacturer (in 1963 Byer-Rolnick bought out Oxxford clothes as Stanley Marcus’ suggestion. They in turn were bought out in 1967 by Koracorp industries – a conglomerate that owned Koret of California, Himalaya and Rainfair brands) Ferdinando Sarmi – Italian born American designer who opened a boutique under his own name in 1959 Sydney Wragge – American sportswear designer 1962: Estée Lauder – American cosmetics manufacturer Jules-François Crahay – French designer for Nina Ricci James Laver – English fashion historian and author Sports Illustrated – Launched in 1954 by Henry Luce, the first swimsuit edition wasn’t until 1964 so it’s not clear why Sports Illustrated received a Neiman Marcus award 1963: Georges Braque – French painter and sculptor who, with Picasso, developed the Cubist art style, that lead to the modern Art movement Bud Kilpatrick – Californian fashion designer Margaret Clarke Miller – New York shoe designer Maurice Tumarkin – menswear designer 1964-1965 (these two years were combined): Geoffrey Beene – American fashion designer who started Geoffrey Been Inc. in 1963 Tzaims Luksus – American textile designer Mr & Mrs. Arthur Edelman – Exotic leather suppliers 1966: Mila Schön – Italian fashion designer Mary Brosnan – mannequin designer Mme Helen Lazareff – Founder of the French ‘Elle’ magazine in November 1945 Lucie Ann Onderwyzer – lingerie designer ‘Lucie Ann of Beverly Hills’ Jacques Tiffeau – French born American fashion designer 1967: Valentino – Italian fashion designer Fiamma Ferragamo – shoe designer and daughter of Salvatore Ferragamo The Artisans of Florence -For the many artisans of the city who were working to restore Florence after disastrous floods in November 1966 Giancarlo Venturini – Italian knitwear designer Lydia de Roma – Italian sportswear designer founded in 1961 1968: Oscar de la Renta – Caribbean born American designer Kenneth Jay Lane – American costume jewellery designer Armi Ratia – founder of the Finnish textile company Marimekko Roland Jourdan – president of the French shoe company Charles Jourdan, and son of the founder 1969: Bill Blass – American designer for Maurice Rentner since 1959; buys out and renames the company Bill Blass Limited in 1970 Emanuel Ungaro – Italian fashion designer since 1965 Gloria Vanderbilt – socialite and textile designer for Bloomcraft Anne Klein – pioneer in American women’s sportswear and junior lines Bernard Kayman – English sunglass designer The awards are now only sporadically given… 1973: Hanae Mori – Japanese fashion designer Missoni – Italian knitwear manufacturer Jean Muir – English fashion designer Ralph Lauren – American fashion designer Levi Strauss & Co – American blue jean manufacturer 1979: Giorgio Armani – Italian men’s designer Richard Avedon – American fashion photographer Baccarat – French crystal manufacturers (American distribution by Neiman Marcus) Perry Ellis -American men’s fashion and sportswear designer Mary McFadden – American fashion designer 1980: Judith Leiber – Hungarian born American handbag designer Karl Lagerfeld – German fashion designer 1984: Issey Miyake – Japanese fashion designer Jack Lenor Larsen – American textile designer and weaver 1995: Miuccia Prada – Italian fashion designer Jean-Paul Goude – advertising film director known for his 1990s Chanel campaign Grace Mirabella – editor in chief of U.S. Vogue 1971 – 1988, and editor in chief of Mirabella magazine 1989 – 2000 Stanley Marcus – son of founder of Neiman Marcus and the instigator of the Neiman Marcus award