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November 28, 2008

No wire hangers - EVER - eh?

Filed under: Canadian Fashion — Tags: , — Jonathan @ 6:51 pm

That phrase ‘No wire hangers - EVER!’ has become one of those famous movie lines, like ‘Say hello to my little friend’ or ‘I’ll have what she’s having’.  Whether Joan Crawford actually ever uttered the hanger phrase doesn’t matter, it has entered the lexicon of clothes care.

Recently, after I decanted a recent donation of 1960s clothing from wire hangers onto wood and padded hangers, I tried to clear up the wire debris and of course had to contend with that familiar Chinese puzzle of interlocking hooks and loops of wire. As I cursed the inventor of the wire hanger I thought - was there an inventor of the wire hanger? Well, I hang my head in shame to discover that it was a Canadian invention!

It seems the inventor was a man by the name of Albert Parkhouse, from St. Thomas, Ontario. Around the turn of the century he took a job across the border at Timberlake & Sons in Jackson, Michigan; a company that made various novelties including lampshade frames from heavy duty wire.

The story goes that in 1903 Albert arrived late for work one wintery day to discover the coat hooks already filled with employee’s coats. Necessity became the mother of invention when Albert took some wire and bent it into shape to support his coat and hang it off a hook underneath the other coats. Further improvements were made to the wire hanger and several patents applied for and granted in 1906 and 1907. Timberlake & Sons received all financial benefits for the invention because the wire hanger had been invented on company time. This may have been a source of discontent because shortly afterwards, Parkhouse moved to Los Angeles where he died in 1927. Timberlake and Sons remained in business until 1953.

November 26, 2008

We’ll be right back after this brief commercial message…

Filed under: Fashion History Museum — Jonathan @ 5:26 am
shoe calendar

shoe calendar

1960s calendar

1960s calendar

If you are wondering about some stylish Christmas gifts to give to those on your fashionable list, have a look around at our gift shop on zazzle. There are a variety of coffee mugs with period fashion images as well as mousepads, note cards, T-shirts, even postage stamps! and the ever-popular seasonal gift — calendars.

All proceeds go towards the founding of the Fashion History Museum so you will be receiving as well as giving to fashion this holiday season!

November 21, 2008

Canadian Fashion Connections - Rose Marie Reid

Filed under: Canadian Fashion — Tags: , , — Jonathan @ 5:54 am

Yesterday I introduced what will become a regular blog column on Movie Costume Reviews. Today I want to introduce another regular blog column - Canadian Fashion Connections. Here I will find interesting tidbits that are sometimes profound and often obscure, but always fashionably Canadian!

Two piece bathing suit labelled 'The Canadiana Swimsuit - A Rose Marie Reid original, c. mid 1940s

Two piece bathing suit with totemic designs labelled 'The Canadiana Swimsuit - A Rose Marie Reid Original' c. mid 1940s

Because of a lucky find at my local antique market on Sunday the illustration for this article has inspired the first Canadian Fashion Connection — bathing suit designer Rose Marie Reid.

Rose Marie Yancey was born into a Mormon family in Cardston, Alberta in 1906. Her first marriage brought her to Vancouver, British Columbia but that union did not last. After her divorce she took swimming lessons and fell in love with her swimming instructor Jack Reid, who became her second husband in 1935.

Bathing suits in the mid 1930s were made of wool and got heavy and saggy when wet. Rose Marie cut a pair of swimming trunks for her new husband from an old duck (cotton) coat and put laces up the sides for a snug fit. Jack convinced Rose Marie to design a woman’s version and also convinced buyers from the Hudson Bay Company department store to look at samples and place orders. Sixteen dozen orders later and Reid’s Holiday Togs Ltd. was born. Reid quickly became known for her well-fitted, comfortable, flattering bathing suit designs but just when her real success began to take off in 1946 her marriage to Jack Reid ended.

As early as 1938 Rose Marie Reid had been trying to break into the American market. The war stagnated any international expansion but in 1946 she began to look for a niche in the U.S. swimsuit market that was being dominated by Jantzen, Catalina, Cole, and Mabs. A buyer at Lord and Taylor in New York was impressed with her line and convinced other buyers to see her show in California where Rose Marie wowed them with her collection. The highlight of the show was an extravagant metallic gold suit bought by Rita Hayworth - the ‘IT’ girl of 1946, and the first of many pinup models (including Marilyn Monroe) to choose Reid bathing suits for their flattering fits.

In 1951, LIFE magazine praised Reid’s hourglass design as the year’s most revolutionary suit. In that same year Reid’s attention turned exclusively towards the U.S. as the headquarters were moved to Los Angeles. The Canadian side of the business was closed in October 1952. Rose Marie Reid of California became the world’s largest manufacturer of ladies’ swimwear from 1954 to 1959, with her suits selling around the world in forty-nine countries.

Rose Marie Reid believed in flattering the female figure by creating bathing suits with support and structure but her Mormon background wouldn’t let her accept the baring of the belly button in bikinis. In the end it was the adoption of the bikini that spelled Reid’s demise. In 1962 Reid sold out her share of the company and stopped designing bathing suits.

November 20, 2008

Film Costume Review - Changeling

Filed under: costumes — Jonathan @ 12:17 am

This will be the inaugural post of a regular feature on this blog - Movie Costume Reviews. Film can be inspirational to different people in different ways. The first time I became enamored with historical fashion was when I saw The Six Wives of Henry VIII. This television series from 1970 was at the beginning of an era in film production that took a more authentic approach in recreating period costume.  A badly-costumed film can be distracting but a well-costumed film adds to the development of the characters, the enjoyment of the artistic presentation, and the suspension of disbelief. I think better costuming also helps actors give better performances, after all, to play a part well isn’t it better to look and feel the part? Well maybe… I am no actor and I am not about to criticize anyone outside of my sphere of knowledge, so I will stick to fashion history.

First on the docket of Movie Costume Reviews is the current release Changeling, directed by Clint Eastwood, starring Angelina Jolie, costumes designed by Deborah Hopper.

Angelina Jolie looking smart in 1928, from The Changeling

Angelina Jolie looking smart in 1928, from Changeling

Set in 1928 Los Angeles, Changeling recounts the true story of Christine Collins (played by Angelina Jolie) who discovers her nine year old son is missing when she returns home from work. The film follows the search for her son and her increasing dispute with the Los Angeles police department when they ‘find’ a different boy and claim he is her long lost son. The film takes place from March to October 1928, with a further scene in 1930 and a final follow-up scene in June 1935.

The art direction in this film is remarkable, the Los Angeles streets with their street cars, Christine Collins’ bungalow and its spare but up-to-date interior, the telephone exchange where she works — all these scenes draw you into 1928 and make you want to wander into other buildings along the street to gawk at the past.

At first, the costuming appears to be very well done. The middle class Christine Collins has few clothes, but all are well kept and coordinated, however as the movie progresses, issues with the etiquette of clothing in the 1920s begin to surface.

Perhaps the most noticeable problem is a lack of handkerchiefs. Anyone who grew up with ancient aunts will remember the ever-present handkerchief. Tucked into pockets, up sleeves, in purses, in bras — no woman was far from her hankie. Only in one scene towards the end of the film does the character of Christine Collins have a handkerchief in hand. All earlier scenes she is without a handkerchief including when she is distraught while she looks for her son, reports him missing, and receives news of his discovery. Instead of a handkerchief she uses her fingers to wipe away her tears, which are remarkably free of any black from her mascara and shadow-rimmed eyes.

Angelina Jolie looking fashion confused in 1928, from The Changeling

Angelina Jolie looking fashion confused in 1928, from Changeling

The character Christine Collins, is also often inappropriately dressed for her occupation. Images of women office workers in the late 1920s will invariably show endless dark coloured wool serge skirts worn with cotton blouses - even in summer. A more authentic presentation of female office attire can be found in Thoroughly Modern Millie! In one pivotal scene, Christine Collins wears a green silk or rayon crepe chiffon afternoon dress with floral trim - something that at the time would have been considered far too fancy for work. Women may dress up for work these days, but in 1928 female office workers followed strict dress and deportment codes so as not to supposedly distract their male coworkers from their work.

Other than these two failures to understand costume of the period, there is some awkward accessorizing, such as the above image where Christine Collins wears a wintery felt hat in August with the same summery dress she inappropriately wears in the office. She is shown to own a woven straw hat during the same period, so it is an odd choice of accessorizing. The open crocheted gloves are also too short for the 1920s, and probably date from the 1950s.

On the good side, the brown outfit shown at top looks very smart and appropriate, and a grey outfit worn during a court room scene towards the end of the film is also extremely chic without being over the top - exactly the sort of thing she would be advised to wear to court by her attorney. However, despite Christine’s perfect look in court, many extras in the crowd wear peculiar choices of hats - particularly one woman who wears a pink silk hat that would be nearly a decade out of fashion by 1928.

A rather puzzling scene in the fall of 1930 shows Christine wearing the exact same outfit she wore in spring 1928 and the coat and hat look as fresh as they did two and half years earlier. The final scene takes place in 1935 and shows Christine at work wearing a green dress with shoulder pads and an excessively low decolletage. This dress would again be inappropriate for the office and the shoulder pads seemed too square in shape for 1935. This scene looked like Angelina Jolie stepped in to make sure she looked glamorous in her final appearance, but I don’t know what the reasoning was for that choice of frock.

The costume designer, Deborah Hopper, has worked almost exclusively for Clint Eastwood; she is his costume designer of choice. I am not familiar with her other work as I have yet to see Flags of Our Fathers, Letters from Iwo Jima, or Million Dollar Baby. The overall costuming for Changeling however was very good - the clothes were overall quite appropriate to the period, location and storyline. 7/10

November 18, 2008

Behind the Seams - Black fashion at the White House

Filed under: Books, fashion — Tags: , , , , — Jonathan @ 1:25 pm

It was hard not to be more interested in the American election this year than Canada’s, but judging by the voter-turn-out for the Canadian election, I don’t think I was alone.

The fashionistas are already circling Michelle Obama; criticisms have been made about her back end in white slacks, her budget-priced print dresses, and her over-fondness for one particular yellow sweater. I admit I didn’t love that red and black Narcisco Rodriguez dress she wore on election night but that was just my personal taste. I think Mrs. Obama looks great in tailored suits, print dresses, and classic sportswear; and her revival of the Jackie-esque pearl necklace was a stroke of genius that equated Kennedy elan with the Obamas.

Although Mrs. Obama may be America’s first black First Lady, she is not the first black lady to affect fashion in the white house.

Behind the Scenes: Thirty Years a Slave, and Four Years in the White House is a fascinating book about the life and times of Elizabeth Keckley (c.1820 - 1907) - dressmaker to Mary Todd Lincoln. Her memoir recounts how she became a dressmaker to support her master and his family in St. Louis, and how she purchased her freedom and rose to the position of dressmaker to the First Lady. Her perspective from inside the White House throws an interesting light onto the politics of the era, especially as she became a sympathetic ear for Mary Todd Lincoln. After the president’s assassination Mary Todd found herself in dire financial straits; she turned to Keckley, who went to New York to help sell the elegant clothing she had made for Mrs. Lincoln during her time as First Lady.

This book would make a GREAT movie and it does resemble Backstairs at the White House at times but this story is more personal, revealing and surprising. And her clothes have not disappeared either. The famous purple velvet dress shown for years in the First Lady gallery at the Smithsonian turns out to be an original Keckley!

November 9, 2008

Ten Fashion Mistakes still being made…

Filed under: fashion — Jonathan @ 4:43 pm

I bet you are expecting to read a list of fashion mistakes that include the usual suspects: shoulder pads, Lycra, culottes, ponchos, tie-dye, thongs, etc.  I was tempted to take this route but frankly not every shoulder pad is evil, and some people actually look good in Lycra, and thongs were invented for a reason - to avoid pantie bulge. I think what is far worse are the fashion blunders that have been plaguing women, and men, for decades - even centuries…

c. 1970 Tie Dye how-to book

c. 1970 Tie Dye how-to book

#10) ‘Mutton dressed as lamb’ is a saying that goes way back but its sentiment is as true today as when first uttered. ‘Stay Young and Beautiful’ was the advice given in a song in the 1930s but once you are old enough to be the parent of the generation you are emulating, its time to rethink your look. Pursuing artificial youth suggests an inability to cope with reality and mental immaturity. Aging is something that happens to all of us and the only way to beat it is through death.

#9) Why is looking sexy always so desirable?  Do you really want a wolf-whistle inducing power suit? Pick your clothes appropriately for the occasion. Instead of sexy, think of looking for complimentary or flattering garments. Sexy is something you want for pole dancing, not grocery shopping — I only want to see one type of melons in the fruit section…

1992 sportwear catalogue

1992 sportwear catalogue

#8) Under-dressing. Ever since dress codes started falling by the wayside in the 1960s a lot of babies have been thrown out with bath-waters. Some of the rules were silly and old-fashioned such as ties for men and skirts for women in the office. However, when going to the theatre make sure your clothes look more expensive than the tickets; When invited to a party, dress like you have someplace better to go afterwards; When at work, dress for the job you want, not the people who work for you. Under dressing says ‘I don’t care’ to your boss, host, and friends.

#7) Work is not a fashion show unless you work at Vogue. Buy dresses and suits for the office that are comfortable, demure, and serious, not tight, revealing, or distinct. Thighs, cleavage and belly buttons are inappropriate unless you wear a bathing suit for work. Dressing like a secretary from Working Girl says you aren’t serious about your job and not worthy of a promotion.

#6) I know I am going to take a lot of heat for this but remember, tattoos are forever. I am not going to cite a bunch of reasons why you shouldn’t get a tattoo because I think there is only one valid reason; I have yet to meet anyone who looks at old pictures of themselves and does not cringe at their hairstyle or outfit. Some women had eyeliner and eyebrows tattooed on their faces in the 80s! If you must get a tattoo, think of it being visible only when you are in a bathing suit. The worst look ever is a strapless white wedding dress that reveals tats (or worse partial tats) of hearts, unicorns or snakes writhing through skulls on the bride’s back, arms and shoulders.

#5) Face Reality, not only in regards to your age, but also your weight and body type. Buy the correct size undergarments, waist sized pants, and dresses. Pretending you are smaller than you are by purchasing ill-fitting garments only accentuates figure flaws. If you are bottom heavy with thick ankles, don’t wear mini skirts or if you are rail thin, chest bones are not the same thing as cleavage.

#4) You do not need to spend $150,000.00 to look good for two months. Politics aside, Sarah Palin’s clothing budget sounded more like Imelda Marcos’ shoe budget. Three thousand dollars per year for fifty years is what many women budget during their lifetime for clothes! In Europe it is not socially embarrassing to wear the same outfit twice to the same friend’s house for dinner, in fact a good hostess will notice and compliment her guest for wearing her ‘brown satin’ or ‘red crepe’ dress because she looks so good in it.

Fashion image, c. late 1980s

Fashion image, c. late 1980s

#3) For centuries the biggest fashion problem has been vanity. From rib-crushing corsets to towering heels, suffering to be beautiful (as the French say) is not worth jeopardizing your health. By all means wear towering stiletto heels if you want, but reserve them for two hour cocktail parties. Failing to wear sensible heel heights if you work on your feet all day will result in suffering for fifty years to be beautiful for ten.

#2) The clothes horse is not a Chinese astrological symbol. You will never convince anyone that you need a rotation of twenty pairs of jeans or fifty pairs of shoes. Why is it that suddenly we need walk-in closets in our homes? Because we buy too many clothes. We are fortunate that it is no longer embarrassing to wear something that is three years old, in fact there is a certain elan in buying quality items and wearing them until they are vintage, but buying quality is not the same as buying quantity. If you haven’t worn something for a year its time for it to go to charity.

#1) We have been telling ourselves since the 1960s to do our own thing, buck the establishment, and don’t care what others think. The result is that we live in a very rude world where everyone is screaming about themselves and nobody is listening. Society requires social order, otherwise we have anarchy. Despite the arguments that ‘its comfortable’ or ‘I don’t care what other’s think’ your appearance is the first statement you make to strangers. You won’t be asked to dance if you show up at the prom in a sweatsuit. Like it or not, we dress for others because we feel better about ourselves when others treat us the way we think they should.

November 7, 2008

Millinery and espionage

Filed under: Books, millinery — Tags: , , — Jonathan @ 4:20 pm
Rose Valois white and green rayon yarn and black veiling turban, c. 1943

Rose Valois white and green rayon yarn and black veiling turban, c. 1943

While I was researching my book ‘Forties Fashion: From Siren Suits to the New Look’, I ran across an interesting tidbit but I couldn’t find the right place to fit it into my text. Last night I watched Charlotte Gray, a film about a fictional Scottish woman who volunteers for the SOE (Special Operations Executive) during World War II. I was reminded of the tidbit I didn’t use in the book, so here it is…

The British clothing coupon scheme and the Make Do and Mend promotion came from the office of Hugh Dalton, Minister of Economic Warfare. But it was also Hugh Dalton’s idea to create the Special Operations Executive. Inspired by groups like Sinn Fein in Ireland, this organization was to help the French continue to fight under the German occupation as well as General Petain’s Vichy government. Independent of the War Office, the SOE was created to aid the French underground and undertake acts ranging from the dissemination of propaganda to sabotage and assassinations. It was by this organization that the fictitious Charlotte Gray was recruited, however, there were real women in the organization.

Rose Valois brown wool felt hat with feather and wood ornament trims, c. 1940

Rose Valois brown wool felt hat with feather and wood ornament trims, c. 1940

In April 1942, Winston Churchill gave approval for the SOE to send women into Europe. Women were already involved in the SOE as coders, wireless operators, and conterfeiters of identity papers but in the streets of France women spies were less conspicuous than men and could carry parcels without suspicion. Thirty-nine women were sent into France by the SOE including Vera Leigh.

Born in 1903, Vera Leigh was abandoned as a baby but adopted by an American father and English mother.  After training with the Parisian milliner Caroline Reboux she went to work as a designer at the newly founded Parisian millinery Rose Valois in 1927.

When France was invaded by the German Army in 1940, Vera joined the French Resistance. She helped  Allied servicemen get out of France until 1942 when she too left France. Recruited by the SOE, Vera was given the codename ‘Simone’ and flown to Tours in May 1943. She travelled to Paris where she worked as a courier but was captured while meeting another agent at a cafe in the Place des Ternes on October 30, 1943. The following May she was transported with seven other captured female SOE agents to Germany and was executed at Natzweiler on July 6, 1944.

 

November 2, 2008

Meg and Me - My Ten Years at eBay

Filed under: vintage business — Tags: , — Jonathan @ 5:38 pm

In the early 1980s I paid for my university education by being a ‘picker’ - an antiques industry term for a middleman who scours thrift shops and garage sales and then flips those items at a reasonable profit to antique dealers for resale. In those days there were scads of mid-century modern vases and kitchenware, trunk-loads of vintage clothes, and stacks of old magazines to buy.

In the late 1980s a longtime antiques dealer told me that the antiques and collectibles market was about to explode.  It had been the fad in Europe for many years to be a collector of something - anything - it didn’t matter. North Americans were just getting into collecting and the trend would grow as the baby boomers entered middle age

The prediction was very accurate. Throughout the 1990s North Americans did start collecting, and in a big way. On a trip to New England in the autumn of 1989, from the Maine coast down to Cape Cod, my partner Kenn and I spent two weeks doing nothing but visiting antique stores, finishing off with a two-day visit to the Brimfield antique market in the heart of Massachusetts. Our station wagon was so packed for our return home that I couldn’t see out the rear view mirror. A return trip to New England in the spring of 1991 shocked us as prices had doubled and stock was halved in the same stores and markets we had previously found fabulous deals in less than two years before. Martha Stewart’s new magazine was now highlighting the latest hot collectables; jadeite glassware, McCoy vases and polka dot Pyrex. There had always been a market for these items but now the baby boom generation were diversifying their investments through the genteel pursuit of collecting.

Meanwhile, in the tech world, the Internet was just starting to become a popular home service for computers in the early 1990s. For those wanting to undertake family ancestry research or access porn without the embarrassment of going to an adult bookstore, the Internet was a useful tool but its potential as a marketplace was still untapped. Then in September 1995 Pierre Omidyar, a French-born entrepreneur living in San Jose, California, married the potential of the Internet to the trend in collecting, and created the first online auction site - eBay.  The early rumour of it having been created to trade Pez dispensers to aid his girlfriend’s growing collection was made up by marketers to attract media attention.

During the summer of 1997 I first heard about eBay in hushed tones at antique markets. The very first site I visited once I got Internet service in March 1998 was eBay. For a quarter you could list anything you wanted and a week later you had a high bidding winner who would send you payment and before you knew it, you were in business. I instinctively felt this would become a huge market but would be successful for a limited time. I felt that once everyone realized the potential, the whole market would become bogged down with junk and saturated with copycat selling sites.

The early days of eBay had few sellers and not a lot of merchandise, which meant hungry buyers would slap a bid on practically anything. Wade figurines (those little brown china animals that came as premiums in boxes of Red Rose tea in the 1970s and littered Canadian garage sales at a quarter a piece) could sell for anywhere up to $20.00 U.S. Amazingly, trite collectables often sold better than high-end antiques and the favourable U.S. exchange rate and low Canada Post shipping costs made online selling very profitable.

The number of sellers on eBay at the time was surely not more than a few thousand, and most of us were part time garage sale junkies who had real jobs in the real world. Most of what was being reported about eBay in the media was positive. Headlines reinforced the idea that eBay was a great opportunity for housebound entrepreneurs. Humorous and bizarre tales of eBay sale items often made their way into the news over the next decade: the teenager who sold his virginity; the human liver, the ghost in the bottle, the nude guy in the tea kettle picture, Jenny’s phone number ‘8675-309′, the grilled cheese sandwich that looked like Jesus . . .

A number of copycat sites did spring up in the early days but ‘eBayers’ were loyal and there wasn’t enough room in the market for other sites to hone in on the auction action. Riding the wave, Pierre Omidyar, and his Canadian-born partner Jeff Skoll, hired Harvard Business School graduate Meg Whitman to take eBay public. The second worst financial mistake I ever made in my life was not buying eBay stock but as they didn’t actually produce anything I failed to see its investment potential. By the end of 1999, the stocks had been split and re-split - I had missed the eBoat….  Nevertheless, eBay was getting good publicity and sales and new buyers were showing up every day.  In 1999 I quit my day job, took a stock-buying vacation and settled down as a full time ‘eBayer’. Those of us who were selling on eBay at the time wax poetic about the good ole days - this was the golden age of eBay when stock was cheap and plentiful, sales were brisk and profitable and costs were upfront and reasonable. There were the occasional bad eBayers but the feedback system educated buyers who the bad sellers were and the worst buyers you could get were those who didn’t send you a money order for their purchase.

However, the realities of eBay becoming a corporation started to become evident as the friendly, folksy atmosphere that had been the community of eBay buyers, sellers and employees slowly dissipated. The first signs of a corporate mentality became evident when the humorously worded emails from HQ were no longer humorously worded; the helpful staff members you could email or phone still worked at eBay but their phone numbers became unlisted and their emails were changed. The only time you heard from eBay employees now was when you did something wrong - and the rules about what you could and couldn’t do were becoming prodigious.

International branches were set up in Germany, France, Britain, Canada and Australia, but negotiations to include these satellites required adherence to national laws.  For example, Germany and France had laws banning Nazi insignia resulting in eBay barring the sale of any World War II material that sported the swastika. This development was sprung on militaria dealers with a couple of weeks’ notice.  Needless to say the last minute dumping of merchandise was spectacular. International bans on the trade of products made from endangered species were carefully adhered to as well - eBay even surpassed the rules by banning species that were similar but not endangered and included antique items that did not fall within the international dictates.

In an effort to stem complaints of selling counterfeit items, eBay created the VeRO ‘Verified Rights Owner’ program for protecting intellectual property rights. Anyone holding rights to a copyright, trademark or patent could become a member, claim a violation and have an auction shut down with no proof or dialog with the seller. Essentially if caught selling a Louis ‘Fauxton’ bag, you were guilty until proven innocent and the only evidence to prove the item wasn’t contravening intellectual property rights was an original bill of sale from an authorized dealer or outlet. Claiming itself as only a ‘venue’ eBay absolved itself of any responsibility and did not take on the role of mediating or educating users. Chanel, Disney, Rolex, Tiffany, Hermes and the owner of the phrase ‘Shabby Chic’ often made lawsuit headlines but ironically, these companies rarely policed eBay auctions. The eBay strategy was to rely on eBayers to fink on fellow eBayers, creating tattle telling and e-rages between users.

One day, one of my listings for a dime store novelty ‘floaty’ pen from the 1960s featuring an inch tall naked woman whose swimsuit fell off when the pen was turned upside down was finked on by a fellow ebayer and removed from a collectable pens category for being too salacious. A newly created ‘adult’ category was to be the new place to put all items of carnal interest short of a baroque painting. For a brief time shoes could not even be modelled in bare feet! However, puritanical rules came and went - underwear being modelled for the purpose of soliciting high bids is common on eBay. It is the inconsistency of the rules that has always been the most frustrating. Crocodile purses could, then couldn’t, then could, then couldn’t, be sold. I think they are back to could again…

Other changes in policies began to lead to the first rumbles of discontent from eBay users: any reference or links to outside websites were forbidden and chat boards, where eBayers could supposedly communicate freely about issues with other eBayers became tightly monitored by eBay ‘pinks’ (a derogatory reference to eBay officials whose censorial postings appeared with a pink coloured bar.) Chat boards that were at one time a helpful resource became cesspools of name-calling and ridicule because of eBay’s policy of tattle telling. More than one group of eBayers created their own off-site chat boards where they could talk freely and promote their sales without eBay retribution. Despite these growing pains and growing discontent, the bottom line was that sales were strong, the stock values were exploding, and eBay was a household name. Then came 9/11.

Like most of the world eBay came to a near standstill for the week following the terrorist attacks. Sales had been booming in the weeks previous to September 11, 2001 but they now dwindled. In 1999 a computer breakdown put eBay out of commission for the best part of a week and the company’s stock plummeted as a result.  This time, there was nothing to do but spin the situation to make eBay look like a caring, patriotic organization. A charity called Auction for America was launched to raise a hundred million dollars for the victims of terrorism.  The idea was that eBay wouldn’t charge any fees for items donated to raise money for the charity but, having been conceived in haste, there were huge flaws with the plan. The seller had to foot the shipping costs to the buyer and the only form of acceptable payment for the charity auctions was Billpoint, the newly created eBay online payment service that had just been launched. For failing to wrap the transparent business motivation well enough in a charitable blanket, the company became an international joke. Few sellers offered anything of real value for sale and the embarrassingly under-publicized final amount barely topped eight million when the campaign was kyboshed three months later.

By early 2002, eBay had rallied somewhat and an advertising campaign stepped up eBay’s presence in magazines and television. In one television spot, middle-aged suburbanites danced around in grey sweat pants singing the virtues of eBay, where you could find anything for a bargain. However, eBay wasn’t founded as a place for bargain hunters, it was created to access new markets.  The powers that be at eBay were no longer concentrating on unique antiques and collectables; they were courting manufacturers to blow out overstocked mass-produced merchandise at discount prices. Collectables categories became inundated with huge numbers of new products, listed in multiples, making finding authentic items arduous. Gold watch chains, for example, suddenly went from a few listings per week to hundreds of listings per week, burying the real Victorian gold watch chains amongst the hundreds of Victorian style gold plate watch chains. The Journal of Antiques and Collectibles noted in April 2004 that antiques and collectibles represented sixty percent of eBay’s gross merchandise sales in 1999 but had plummeted to only thirteen percent by 2003.

In an attempt to rekindle the community spirit, eBay created focus groups to help target markets and answer user complaints and suggestions.  I was asked to serve on a vintage clothing committee to define categories and time periods as well as give a workshop on the topic. I resigned after three meetings. The company did not listen to any of my concerns or suggestions and since I wasn’t being paid I really didn’t want to also be ignored! For my service I received an eBay T-shirt that I promptly resold on eBay for $18.00.

Meanwhile, the cost of doing business on eBay was steadily rising. Sellers complained but increases were always cleverly hidden or implemented in small doses to keep the outcry to a minimum. Listing an item on eBay used to be simple and cheap but over the years ‘optional’ features kept being added. If you wanted to compete for sales amongst the growing sea of sellers you had to consider using at least some of the features some of the time: pictures in a gallery, a ten day auction, setting a reserve or prix fixe, highlighting, featuring, second line titles… Little charges here and there added up, as did listing and final fees, as well as accepting credit cards through Paypal, the online payment service bought out by eBay to replace their failed Billpoint. Not all the cost increases were eBay’s fault. Postal rates skyrocketed - a half kilo (one pound) parcel to California from Toronto cost about $6.00 in 1998 and $21.00 in 2008. However, finding affordable stock became the worst problem. The ubiquity of eBay meant that everyone was using eBay sales results to set market prices - even in thrift stores and at garage sales.

The other problem were the ‘two percenters’ - no matter how much diplomacy and tolerance you employ there will always be two in one hundred people you just can’t get along with.  Two-percenters complain, demand, bounce cheques, suffer from buyer’s remorse, and lie to get their own way; the worst two-percenters omit damage reports, refuse returns for valid reasons and even exhibit criminal behaviour by selling fake merchandise. The worst I experienced was a fake charge-back for $600 from a slippery lawyer who found a loophole in the proof of delivery system by playing off paypal and his credit card company against each other. I put an end to it by calling the Los Angeles legal firm where he worked and asked the senior partner if it was custom for his firm to hire criminals… The problem was resolved within the hour.

By 2004 the favourable exchange rate with the American dollar (my largest profit margin) was beginning to slide. However, according to company statistics, there were millions of users on eBay.  Really?  Everyone I know buys and sells on eBay with different identities, some even have third identities for posting on chat boards and less scrupulous sellers have ids for bidding on their own items (an illegal but not uncommon practise called shilling). Then there are the users who registered with eBay five years ago, bought something, and never went back. Hundreds of thousands of identities sit idle and hundreds of thousands more are duplicates but are still being counted as unique eBay users.

The stürm and drang and shrinking profit eventually got to be too much. We stopped selling full time on eBay during 2004. The golden age was over. It was now a struggle to get steady good sales and the increased cost of everything meant you couldn’t waste time on $20 or $30 items. It took, on average, almost an hour to find, clean, photograph, list, answer e-mails, pack, ship, and account for each and every item put up for sale. One person could deal with about 50 items per week as a full time job; Kenn and I pushed ourselves, frequently listing up to 200 items per week for nearly six years. We did extremely well in the first three years but by 2002 the profit margin was dramatically shrinking due to the increased cost of everything from purchasing goods to Paypal service fees. By 2004 we were making less than minimum wages. There were items that sold well like a hockey puck found at a garage sale for 25 cents that sold for $75.00 and an oil lamp sold on commission for $1600.00. But there were duds too like a massive load of vintage clothing that had undisclosed problems and for which we only broke even on the hard costs.

The ‘eBay factor’ has shifted the antiques and collectables business this past decade. Some markets, dolls for example, have plummeted in value due in part to over-availability while other markets, such as vintage clothing, have exploded by bringing buyers and sellers together that would have never met. The result is a shrinking local antiques market. Two years ago we took a side trip to Binghampton New York’s antique district (as advertised by highway road signs), but when we got there we discovered only a few shops remained in business. The owners I spoke with blamed customers who preferred to shop from home on eBay for their collectables. This, however, is beginning to change. Anyone who buys regularly on eBay shares the same stories of disappointment - the items that arrive with damage not disclosed in the listing, the downplayed condition issues and up-sold quality, as well as the carefully positioned photographs that shadow visible damage. More collectors are returning to the shows and sales - the antique markets, traditional auctions, and local stores. Here the items can be handled and inspected before purchase.

An announcement from eBay in early 2008 told of the imminent dismantling of their feedback system - the final front of protection for sellers and buyers to warn others of problems with transactions. Long time sellers looked to move to other auction sites or open their own websites. Meg Whitman had seen the writing on the wall and took leave in March 2008, ending her ten year run at eBay. According to Forbes magazine, traffic had been falling since 2006 and by 2008 was 11% lower than it had been two years earlier. Meg’s replacement decided that to boost stagnant revenues, eBay would impose a price restructuring that in reality was a hefty price increase for eBay sellers. It was clear that eBay was out of touch with its users. In fact it made you wonder if anybody who worked for eBay actually ever bought or sold anything on eBay!

I had endured all the changes over the years and by March 2008 had nearly 7,000 feedbacks with an average 99.8 % of them being positive. However, almost exactly ten years to the day that I first signed up with eBay the last straw came for me when I was cheated out of $45 by ‘JungleJane’ - a seller in San Diego who strung me along and lied about not being able to send my purchase because her mother had died. A friend of hers finked on her ruse but eBay would not do anything. I was fed up with eBay protecting its criminal element of users even though they swear they are only a ‘venue’, an argument that is being increasingly challenged in court.

Today, eBay is an inaccessible multi-national out-of-touch fortress corporation that protects its bad users and dismisses its good users; the site now offers too much junk for sale, has high costs, dwindling numbers of buyers and no effective feedback system. So is this article just sour grapes? Perhaps a little, but I knew it was too good to last… I should be happy I was there when eBay was at its best.

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