Worshipful Company of Glovers of London

There are amazing collections in the hands of private connoisseurs, corporate collections and tiny museums that aren’t well known. I have been collecting links to their online sites for years, and now I am going to share. First up, the Worshipful Company of Glovers of London: http://www.glovecollectioncatalogue.org/index.html

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Sonia Rykiel 1930 – 2016

2022756_deces-de-la-creatrice-sonia-rykiel-a-lage-de-86-ans-web-tete-0211229118594-672x372Twice bestowed the Legion of Honor by French presidents, Sonia Rykiel (pronounced ree-KYEL) was a recognizable icon of French style with her pale face, masses of red hair, mascara-rimmed eyes and almost always dressed in black. Rykiel was born Sonia Flis in Paris on May 25, 1930, the oldest of five daughters. Her Romanian born father was a watchmaker and her Russian born mother a housewife. At 17, Rykiel got a job as a window dresser in a Paris store, and in 1953 married Sam Rykiel, who owned a Paris boutique.

13 Apr 1973, Paris, France --- Fanny Sweater. Paris: Fashion's hottest item this year is the new, long "fanny sweater," and meeting sweater craze head-on is designer Sonia Rykiel, whose mini-sweater dress for evening is presented at showing of her collection here. Right: fanny sweater is tamed somewhat by coupling it with just below the knee pleated skirt worn with fake fur coat. --- Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS

13 Apr 1973, Fanny Sweater by Sonia Rykiel

According to Rykiel she began designing clothes n 1961 while pregnant with her second child and couldn’t find any maternity clothes that appealed to her. Rykiel wanted something that celebrated her pregnancy not hide it, so she designed an outfit that consisted of a fitted bodice and flowing skirt.

She was one of the early proponents of the French ready-to-wear boutique movement and began selling some of her early designs through her husband’s store. In 1968 the couple divorced, and in May of that same year Rykiel opened a boutique on the left bank selling maternity and knitwear, in the trending neighbourhood of St.-Germain-des-Prés. Her clothes, designed for the liberated, working-woman-on-the-go in mind, took off in the 1970s. Rykiel became best known for re-inventing knitwear into flattering, sexy designs that hugged the figure and made the body look slimmer. Her clothes were soon donned by women of all ages for everyday use.

00-holding-sonia-rykiel-in-vogueRykiel product lines expanded in the 1980s to include clothing for men and children, perfume and cosmetics, lingerie, and accessories. By 1990, the business had grown into a global enterprise of 200 retail outlets. Her daughter Nathalie became the company’s artistic director in 1995 and its president in 2007. Rykiel retired in 2009, and in 2012, Fung Brands, an investment firm backed by two Hong Kong billionaires acquired 80 percent of the company.

Rykiel died at the age of 86 on Thursday (August 25) from complications from Parkinson’s.

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Thobe (thawb) – Arabic for garment

Kenn picked this handy guide up when he was in Bahrain three years ago:

know-your-thobe2 know yr thobe 2

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Shop Windows – 100 years of men’s fashion in 1922

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Interesting picture of a store window showing a hundred years of men’s fashion 1822 – 1842 – 1862 – 1882 – 1902 – and 1922. I am guessing this image is probably from Macy’s in New York as its founder, Roland Macy, was born in 1822. Roland Macy had quite the biography – from whaling ship sailor to failed businessman. He finally hit it big in 1858 when he founded his fancy dry goods store in New York. Macy’s takes credit for introducing advertised fixed prices, the first department store Santa, and a very famous parade that has become a New York institution.

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Fashion in Song – Blue Jeans – 2009

There are many songs about Blue Jeans and this is probably the most recent. By Jesse James and used in the 2009  film ‘Confessions of a Shopaholic’

I hang in my blue jeans
I sway in my blue jeans
Representing Georgia
So I twang in my blue jeans
Who likes my blue jeans?
You like my blue jeans
Specially when I wear my
Cowboy boots with my

I, I’m so fly
I got a fresh new pair that’s so tight
{uh} I, I’m so fly
I got a fresh new pair that’s so tight {oh}

[Chorus:]
I got a brand new pair of blue jeans
Me and my posse looking fresh and so clean
Headed out, rocking ’til the early morning
Giving my sugar one sweet performance
{hey, hey} Don’t matter what you wearing
{hey, hey} It’s about the way you wear it
{hey, hey} Don’t matter what you wearing
{hey, hey} It’s about the way you

I step in my blue jeans
Home wreck in my blue jeans
Got it from my momma
So I’m blessed in my
I sing in my blue jeans
Bling in my blue jeans
When I hit the country club
I get in free with my

Oh, I’m like whoa
I got a fresh new pair that’s so dope
Oh, I’m like whoa
I got a fresh new pair that’s so dope

[Chorus]

Y’all ready for this?
Hey, Hey, Hey, Hey, Hey, Hey
When I bend and snap
When I step and clap
Everybody asks, ‘Who is that?’
When I’m out in public
Everybody loves it
I know what they wondering
When I bend and snap
When I step and clap
Everybody asks, ‘Who is that?’
When I’m out in public
Everybody loves it
I know what they wondering

I look rich in my blue jeans
Slap a (ow!) in my blue jeans
Boys looking as I rock my hips in my
I tease in my blue jeans
I squeeze in my blue jeans
And when I blow up
I’m getting free cause of my

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1935 Cocktail Hour ideas…

Great film showing the latest in cocktail fashions (clothes and cocktails). The soundtrack is lost, but the original script survives:

“Tricky new styles and ideas in cocktail accessories are being shown here at the National Wine and Liquor Show in the Hotel Stevens.

The latest in cocktail attire, too. Even the canapes are blossoming out in new designs and flavours. Step up and pick your own! But don’t forget to keep a strict count of them, sister.

And now how’s this! Cocktail mittens! For warding off that cocktail shaker chill.

And how about this portable bar for the beach next summer! The 1935 growler! Another good reason for lolling on the sands. If you neen any more! Well, here’s sand in your eye!

Ah! The spirit of champagne! Up to her neck in bubbles!”

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Fashion in Song – Fashion – 1980

David Bowie said his 1980 song Fashion was about the wearying, conformist full-time job of following trend in the largest sense of the word, not just clothes, but all things fashionable. “When I first started going to discos in New York in the early ’70s, there was a very high powered enthusiasm and [the scene] had a natural course about it,” Bowie said on a promo disc. “[It] seems now to be replaced by an insidious grim determination to be fashionable, as though it’s actually a vocation. There’s some kind of strange aura about it.”

There’s a brand new dance but I don’t know its name
That people from bad homes do again and again
It’s big and it’s bland full of tension and fear
They do it over there but we don’t do it here

Fashion!
Turn to the left
Fashion!
Turn to the right
Oooh, fashion!
We are the goon squad and we’re coming to town
Beep-beep, beep-beep

Listen to me, don’t listen to me
Talk to me, don’t talk to me
Dance with me, don’t dance with me, no
Beep-beep

There’s a brand new talk, but it’s not very clear
Oh bop
That people from good homes are talking this year
Oh bop, fashion it’s loud and tasteless and I’ve heard it before
Oh bop
You shout it while you’re dancing on the ole dance floor
Oh bop, fashion

Fashion!
Turn to the left
Fashion!
Right
Fashion!
We are the goon squad and we’re coming to town
Beep-beep
Beep-beep

Listen to me, don’t listen to me
Talk to me, don’t talk to me
Dance with me, don’t dance with me, no
Beep-beep
Beep-beep

Oh, bop, do do do do do do do do
Fa-fa-fa-fa-fashion
Oh, bop, do do do do do do do do
Fa-fa-fa-fa-fashion
La-la la la la la la-la

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Cross dressing violation

I snagged this photo off of messynessychic.com  (not very original of me to so blatantly lift someone else’s blog material, but the photo was too good!)

Evelyn “Jackie” Bross (left) and Catherine Barscz (right) at the Racine Avenue Police Station in Chicago, June 5, 1943. They had been arrested for violating a cross-dressing ordinance.

Evelyn “Jackie” Bross (left) and Catherine Barscz (right) at the Racine Avenue Police Station in Chicago, June 5, 1943. They had been arrested for violating a cross-dressing ordinance.

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Life in a Bubble in 1963…

Beautiful models are often accused of living their lives in a bubble. Here, photographer  Melvin Sokolsky literally shows models in bubbles for a series of photos taken in Paris in 1963 for Harper’s Bazaar magazine:

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Knocking off Schiaparelli in1939

I ran across this undated window of Arnold Constable & Co. and I suspect these are knock-offs of Schiaparelli’s summer 1939 collection that was inspired by the 50th anniversary of the Eiffel tower”

arnconstablephoto

Undated photo of store window in Arnold Constable & Co., New York, with what looks like versions of Schiaparelli’s summer 1939 bustle collection

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