As Seen In – 1894 beaded purse

There is no seminal work on the history of purses, and I find that most beaded bags are mis-dated. That is why I found this 1894 illustration particularly helpful for dating this purse from the Fashion History Museum collection.

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Shoe Icons – Eperon D’Or

Eperon D'Or boots, c. 1890, image courtesy Shoe Icons

If you haven’t checked out the web’s first virtual shoe museum Shoe Icons lately, then you may want to visit again because the Russian-based collection has recently acquired an incredibly important shoe collection from Izegem, Belgium. Izegem was the seat of the shoe making industry in Belgium. The city had been the centre of linen production during the Renaissance, but as that industry faded during the late 19th century, shoe manufacturing sprung up in its place. Shoe manufacturing was at its peak between the 1890s and 1950s when there were upwards of 80 companies working in Izegem.

Most of the shoes in this collection were samples, made for exhibition to demonstrate the best work of the company Eperon D’Or (Golden Spur). Founded in 1863 by Emiel Vandommele, by 1870 the company was employing 80 workers and was producing 15,000 pairs of shoes per year. In 1910 a new factory was built and in 1930 an even larger, more modern, factory was built in the Art Deco style. The company could not compete with Italian imports and was in decline during the 1950s and 1960s, closing in 1967.

Eperon D'Or shoe, c. 1935, image courtesy Shoe Icons

Highlights from the Eperon D’Or collection were featured in a 2012 Russian calendar, which I was lucky enough to be given by the curator, Nazim Mustafaev. Shoe Icons is in the process of being updated with more examples from this extraordinary shoe collection from Belgium. I am so happy Shoe Icons acquired this collection and is generously sharing it with the world through their virtual museum. It has been a delight to see Shoe Icons grow over the last decade into the world class collection of important footwear it now maintains.

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Fashion SOS – Jerry Edouard

I have tried in vain to find out the story behind Jerry Edouard shoes but all I know is that the shoes were made in Greece, the quality is excellent, and although I have only found shoes with the Jerry Edouard label dating  between about 1968 and 1972, he seems to have been prolific during those five years. Jerry Edouard shoes often have this shaped heel, and I suspect this picture (below) of Tina Turner in c. 1970 shows her wearing a pair of Jerry Edouards – in fact they look identical to the pair in our collection (above).

The Fashion History Museum has 5 pairs, and I have seen scores of others for sale in various venues. I have no idea if Jerry Edouard was a real person, I don’t know if his shoes were sold anywhere other then the U.S., and I don’t know who the Greek manufacturer was (I assume Jerry Edouard is the designer or store, not maker.) If anyone knows more about this label, please let me know!

Added February 18: It appears we have some info! Lynne Ranieri has struck again with her research skills and located an obscure little snippet in the ‘Arizona Republic’ from Feb. 24, 1970. In an article debating the fashionable hemline, Jerry Miller is introduced as the president of Edouard Jerrold International Inc. and of Margaret Jerrold Inc., and the grandson of I. Miller (the NY shoe company famous for hiring Andy Warhol in the 1950s.) Anyway, he is referred to being at the store Goldwaters with his line of ‘Jerry Edouard’ shoes which are “…designed by an English girl, Moya Bowler, and made in Greece.”  The article later states that Jerry Miller spends a lot of time in Europe, visits the Greek factory often, and maintains that “London still sets the trend for young women…” Thank-you Lynne!

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Remember Farb?

A while ago I blogged about the word farb, which is a term used by re-enactors and costumers who recreate historic fashions. It’s an insult to be a farb, because it means you didn’t do much research into the garment you recreated and that you relied upon cliches and misconceptions of what was worn, or purposefully adapted an historic style using modern materials and findings (back zips are typical farb mistakes.) Today I stumbled across some great examples! So, without further ado… here are some classic ‘farbs’:

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Canadian Fashion Connection – Brophey Umbrellas

Brophey umbrella, c. 1950

This smart looking pagoda shaped Brophey umbrella caught my eye today — Brophey was located in Montreal and had a fitful start…  After nearly twenty years of service to Tooke Brothers, a men’s haberdashery headquartered in Montreal, William Allard Brophey founded the Brophey Umbrella Company in 1907. Seven years later, in 1914, Brophey was enticed to return to his former employer as the general manager of Tooke Brothers. Ten years later, in 1924, Brophey left Tooke again to return to his own ventures, and reorganized under the new company name of W.A. Brophey Co. Ltd. which made men’s umbrellas and neckties.

William Brophey operated his company until 1936 when his health began to fail. Brophey died in 1938 but the company survived, expanding production into women’s umbrellas. The company was renamed Telesco Brophy Ltd. in the early 1960s, just before taking out numerous patents for telescoping handles and other umbrella innovations. The company eventually merged with the German umbrella manufacturer Knirps in the late 1970s.

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Eastern Bloc fashion

Goldfisch brand swimsuit made of Prelana, East German, c. 1960s

As anyone who grew up in the West between the 1950s and 1970s will attest – we were told the Eastern bloc was the centre of all evil and ‘they’ wanted to destroy our way of life. ‘Those’ people lived in concrete apartment blocks (at least 2 families per unit), they wore grey clothing and had to line up for oranges and toilet paper. If you got a travel visa behind the iron curtain you were supposed to bring extra pairs of jeans for barter and never take a photograph of a bridge or airport or you would be sent to a Gulag.

Apparently this was a slight over-exaggeration.

However, Eastern bloc fashion is something that was a bit of a joke in the west at the time because it always seemed  behind the times. Case in point, the seller of the bathing suit pictured (click here for listing) was asking questions on the Vintage Fashion Guild about how old it might be. It was odd because it had signs of being from the late 1960s (international ironing symbol on the tag along with the word ‘Prelana’) and yet it was a two piece knitted suit, consisting of a long top over a pair of  shorts – something stylistically out of the 1930s at best! A few searches on the label information solved the answer. VFG member Leonardo da Vintage found references in former CIA documents from 1959 about Eastern Bloc industries and Prelana, an acrylic fibre developed in East Germany. It turns out that Goldfisch was an East German brand of swimwear.

This got me to thinking – there really needs to be some books on Eastern bloc fashion 1945 – 1990 because I don’t know of any on the topic other than one Taschen book of East German fashion with no dates on any of the pictures… any takers?

In the meantime, here’s a great Russian video showing swimwear from 1968:

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As Seen In – Paris quilled hat from 1963

An illustration of the identical hat to this example from the Fashion History Museum appears in the July 1963 edition of Hats magazine. The magazine caption reads: ‘flirtatious cache-chignon creation in Paris fashioned entirely of quills trimmed to the edges and tipped, for a snowflake-y effect.’ Our example is labelled: ‘Creations Badaire Denise, Paris’.

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Canadian Fashion Connection – Arnold Scaasi

US Vogue, December 1955 with Scaasi design on cover

Arnold Scaasi began life as Arnold Isaacs on May 8, 1930 in Montreal. After studying fashion design at the Cotnoir-Capponi School of Design and the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne in Paris he apprenticed at the House of Paquin before moving to New York to work with Charles James.

During a photo shoot of one of Arnold Isaac’s designs he met Robert Denning, who suggested he reverse the letters in his last name to give it an Italian flair. Shortly after he became Arnold Scaasi, one of his designs appeared on the December 1955 cover of Vogue. The following year Scaasi started a ready-to-wear line and in 1958 he won a Coty Fashion Critics Award.

Scaasi gown and matching coat, c. 1965-66, from the collection of the Fashion History Museum

Scaasi was in the same age group of designers as Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene, rising to fame in the New York fashion world when Seventh Avenue was under the lead of Norell and Trigere.

In 1964, when couture was on its last legs, Scaasi opened a couture salon catering to New York socialites and Hollywood celebrities. He was the ‘Marchesa’ of his day – known for glamorous evening gowns and cocktail wear. In 1968, he became internationally famous for making an evening ensemble for Barbara Striesand that became sheer under the camera lights as Streisand went on stage to accept her Academy Award for Funny Girl.

Scaasi was presented with the Council of Fashion Designers of America Lifetime Achievement Award in 1996 – the same year he authored Scaasi: A Cut Above, published by Rizzoli.

 

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As Seen In – Picasso print for White Stag 1963 corduroy Poncho cape

I first read about this garment on The Vintage Traveler blog but its worth showing again.

 

 

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Swinging London – 1967

This is a great eight minute short about the London scene from 1967:

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